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# Embrace the Elements at the Hama Hama Oyster Saloon
- URL: https://www.jeffcobeacon.com/embrace-the-elements-at-the-hama-hama-oyster-saloon/
- Published: 2026-11-04T00:37:17.000Z
- Updated: 2026-11-04T00:37:17.000Z
- Description: The New York Times recognizes the local eatery as one of its ‘50 Favorite Restaurants’
- Author: Meriden Vitale
- Tags: Local News

On a gray and rainy October Sunday, I headed south on Highway 101 to Lilliwaup, home of the Hama Hama Oyster Saloon. Driving down the Olympic Peninsula to and from home, it’s been easy enough to pass the mountain of oyster shells along the Hood Canal. “Next time,” I say, every time. But after the Saloon’s recent inclusion in the New York Times’ Restaurant List of 2026, I decided to stop in, slurp some oyster juice and see what all the fuss was about. 

When the Times sent a photographer a couple of weeks before the list came out, Lissa Monberg, Vice President of Retail at Hama Hama Oyster Company, got a little heads-up of the notoriety to come. “I was glad I’d had two weeks to process, because it was surprisingly hard to function afterward,” she said. “We were just trying to get people to eat oysters on the farm. Winning awards wasn’t part of the goal when we opened the restaurant.” 

Along with the excitement came a little concern. What would new customers think about a waterfront restaurant with no indoor dining and portapots to boot, Monberg wondered. 

But the favorite restaurants list is not reserved for places with the fanciest tableware or the chicest art on the walls. It’s about the unique experience a restaurant can offer — one that has a distinct personality, embraces its singular point of view— and, simply, just makes you feel good. For visitors willing to embrace the scenery and elements, the Hama Hama Oyster Saloon fits the bill.

The Saloon takes its name from the oyster saloons of the late 1800s, when oysters were a cheap food to serve alongside alcohol and the rich and poor feasted together in casual settings. It’s open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and reservations open on Mondays, securing you an A-frame and two dozen oysters for $85\. You can also wing it and show up, which Monberg says about half the people do. In the summer, this might lead to a wait of an hour or more, but in the off-season you’ll probably be fine — and the off-season is an excellent time to go. 

“Oysters are so good in the winter,” said Monberg, who described the restaurant as welcoming and honest. “We grew up standing around a fire, drinking beer and eating oysters, and that was the vibe we were going for.”

A few different but connected dining operations are spread out across the property, along with the farm store housed in the main building. The restaurant space as a whole has evolved since it first opened in 2014\. The A-frames, designed by Monberg’s brother Adam Monberg, who runs the oyster farm, came about during the pandemic but have since settled in as part of the panorama. 

“It was fun to play with the view through the A-frames,” she said. “When you’re waiting in line, you can look at all the triangles of space created by them of the Hood Canal.”

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/c6/a2/c6a241c6-69f5-450c-9fd7-6b170730e448/content/images/2026/11/a-frame.jpg)

A spread of food on a table within one of Hama Hama Oyster Saloon's A-frames. Photo by Meriden Vitale

The misty rain added to the ambiance as we walked up to the host’s table and got instructions on where to sit and how to order, which felt a little intimidating at first. Ordering at the food truck, part of the Stump Bar, is walk-up (no reservation needed), and you’ll get a beeper to let you know when the food’s ready. Options include french fries, fried oysters and chowder. Ordering from the Saloon menu includes table service. Five of us cozied up in A-frame 16, turning on the heater above the table as soon as we sat down. Seals popped their heads out of the water as they swam by, and cormorants opened up their wings, sunning themselves in the bright gray light.

From the Saloon menu, the purple savory clams were a table favorite. The curry sauce was expressive but not overpowering. I kept going back for a clam or two as the eating slowed and the conversation picked up. Among the non-seafood fare, the grilled cheese with onion jam and the pickled vegetables were delicious. While our friendly server sang the praises of the salmon brandade, it lacked the flavor and pizazz of the other dishes.

But the star of the show? The roasted oysters in chipotle bourbon butter. I’d like to personally thank chef Dillon Pennell for this creation. They looked immaculate on the plate, browned and sprinkled with chopped scallions. The flavor was smoky, sweet and unique; I ended up thinking about them a lot over the next week. 

Oysters have a strong reputation, from their rumored aphrodisiac powers to their hidden pearls to the potential for food poisoning when consumed raw. Hama Hama has worked hard not only to serve tasty oysters, but to educate diners on the shellfish industry in Puget Sound and the joys of shucking your own. A part of that effort involves dealing with issues like last summer’s paralytic shellfish poisoning (PSP) outbreak. 

“PSP closures are uncommon in Hood Canal, which is why there was such a big messaging push about last summer's bloom,” Monberg said. “Regulators, shellfish farmers and restaurants work really hard to keep the shellfish as safe as possible. The point of eating oysters is to enjoy them, so if you’re unsure or hesitant because of food safety issues, just cook them.”

Long gone are the days when Monberg’s grandpa would toss the oysters in the back of a pickup and drive them to Seattle himself. There are strict rules to follow about when and where to harvest, and Hama Hama turned to other growing locations during last summer’s PSP outbreak. The crew also uses a variety of modern technologies to keep the oysters safe during transport, and use depuration tanks where the bivalves purge any harmful bacteria after harvest and before appearing on your plate.

It’s no small feat to work in the service industry and deal with the elements at the same time. While guests can take shelter from the rain or wind or stand next to a roaring fire to warm up, the restaurant crew has it a little harder. A majority of the cooking takes place outside, too. True to the spirit of the Times’ Restaurant List, embracing the natural environment where oysters grow makes the dining experience immersive and educational. The crew was celebrated with a bonus for the establishment’s achievement. 

Living on the Olympic Peninsula, it's easy to take the surrounding landscape for granted. The waters of the Hood Canal lap at Irondale Beach and Quilcene Bay, among a few of my local haunts. You can get the sense that things look generally alike, and a gray rainy day isn’t all that unique. So it ended up being a real treat to head to the Saloon on a weekend adventure. It all makes for a great day trip from Port Townsend or Olympia, a fresh perspective for the eyes and a feast for the taste buds. The farm store is open year-round, and there’s an upcoming holiday market the first two weekends in December. Admission is free, with live music and menu specials planned.