Scrumptious Summer Scoops

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Amanda Thieroff in her ice cream silo at the Finnriver Cider Garden  [/caption]

By Emily Henry

“Hey, it’s the queen of ice cream!” exclaimed a couple walking by the table I shared with Amanda Thieroff, owner and operator of Fiddlehead Creamery. “Well, that was good timing,” she laughed as we continued our interview about the business she started back in 2016. All coincidences and laughing aside, Thieroff is a queen in this community – the queen of vegan ice cream.

Admittedly, I entered the vegan ice cream world with a healthy dose of skepticism. My fervent devotion to dairy products, especially ice cream, ran deep. But with the selection of dairy alternatives on the rise, my interest was piqued. With the plant-based ice cream market reportedly anticipated to constitute 10% of the global market by 2026, the paltry vegan options in the freezer section are a relic of the past, and the non-dairy options (coconut, oat, cashew, avocado, macadamia, almond, etc.) are skyrocketing. Using plant-based materials to create the rich creaminess that mimics the high-fat content in dairy is no small task; many suffer from unappealing textures and bland flavors. But not all vegan ice creams are created equal, and Fiddlehead Creamery is exceptional.

Moving to the Pacific Northwest from New York City in 2012, Amanda Thieroff ignited her passion for cooking while working on the Schooner Adventuress and farming in Jefferson County. Though not a vegan, she enjoys working with locally sourced food, and she believes in the practice as a good way to do something for the body, the animals, and the environment.

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A scoop of strawberry and a scoop of mint cookies and cream at the farmer’s market  [/caption]

Thieroff first got the notion to start a non-dairy ice cream business when she saw a couple selling coconut-based ice cream at a farmers’ market in Hawaii. She was inspired by the business concept – in her words, “I find cooking really fun, and it looked doable.” Beginning with some equipment she purchased online, a spot in a commercial kitchen, and a booth at the farmers market, it took Thieroff the better part of a year to hone her recipe to get the right texture. She tested many different brands of coconut milk, making her own at one point. She guessed at proportions until she determined her ice cream tasted and felt just right.

Thieroff’s original hobbyist equipment kept her running for the first few years of operation, but the growing demand of her business allowed her to expand into a two-quart ice cream maker and as of last year, six-quart ice cream maker. “That’s been revolutionary,” she stated, “I’m constantly trying to keep up with the demand, which is really cool and very lucky for me.” Though it is mostly a one-woman operation, Fiddlehead has a few part-time employees who help her make the ice cream one or two days a week and scoop on the weekends.

The ice cream’s bright flavors often showcase what’s in season: strawberry rhubarb, cardamom rose, lavender, pumpkin, and berry basil (coming out later this month). She has the staples such as chocolate, strawberry, and mint chocolate chip. For those wanting something a little off the beaten path, coffee cookie with gluten free Oreos, golden milk, and horchata will have you going back from multiple scoops. Fiddlehead is partnering with Two Crows Bakery to create a Cookie Monster flavor to be released later this year.

Moving forward, Thieroff is working to increase her wholesale market. You can currently find pints of Fiddlehead ice cream at The Nordland General Store, Aldrich’s Market, and The Food Co-op in Jefferson County; and Bay Hay and Feed, and Willowtree Health Market on Bainbridge Island. She can be found scooping cones at the Jefferson County Farmers Market every Saturday, and the Finnriver Cider Garden every weekend, Friday-Sunday through the month of October.

All photos courtesy of Emily Henry