What Carolyn Pours: Bewitched Russian River Pinot Noir 2023
Your perfect Tuesday dinner wine won't change your life but it will save some money.
Having spent many years in California's Russian River area, I can attest to having regularly been captivated by this appellation, which is like a wine’s address and helps you know what to expect before you even open the bottle. This particular address is home to some of the finest pinot noir you can find in the United States. It is also considered one of the most magical growing regions in Sonoma County. Most summer evenings and mornings, fog rolls in from the coast and cools the temperature and makes for an extended growing season, which is perfect for pinot noir. The long growing season and warm afternoons help the grapes ripen slowly.
While most wines from this appellation are quite pricy, I was really curious as to how this bottle I found in the wine aisle at Safeway for under $20 would taste.
When I opened the bottle, the first thing I noticed was a nice rich aroma that made me think of ripe cherries so I had high hopes. Unfortunately, they did not entirely materialize. It's not that this pinot noir is bad, but it is just a bit disappointing, especially if you have been spoiled by other Russian River pinots.
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has a reputation for elegance, and although the label definitely dressed for the occasion the wine itself fell a bit flat. That said, the wine is quite smooth and surprisingly palate friendly. There is just enough earthiness to remind you that it came from somewhere beautiful. It would pair nicely with a mushroom risotto, especially if you have foraged for them yourself.
One of the nice things about this particular pinot noir is how easy it is to drink. Almost a bit too easy. Some wines demand deep contemplation and a notebook. This one simply suggests you relax, pour a second glass, and maybe put on some jazz. I like to sip it sitting in front of my fireplace with a good book. Like many Russian River Pinots, there’s a gentle acidity that keeps things lively and refreshing so it makes the wine incredibly food-friendly. Roast chicken, grilled salmon, mushroom pasta or even just a simple burger would be a tasty pairing. Then there is always the option of sipping some in the kitchen while you’re deciding what to cook.
The finish on this wine, though it doesn't linger, is smooth and pleasant. It certainly fits the description of an easy drinker, just don't expect complexity if you are comparing it to other wines from the region.
All in all, Bewitched Pinot Noir did not leave me under its spell but I would probably buy it again because for the price it fit the bill for a Tuesday evening dinner. Not every bottle of wine has to change your life. Sometimes it just needs to make your evening a little better. And this one does exactly that.